The Stone House, Harper’s Ferry, WV: The History Post

Harper’s Ferry is a city rich in history, much of which is interpreted right on the surface of the town’s bustling tourist district.  However, there are a few interesting little pieces of history that aren’t interpreted in plain view of the casual tourist, and as you well know, those are some of my favorite mysteries.

The Lure

Hopefully, my previous post and the photos therein have whetted your curiosity as to the origins of this building, as the original encounter drove me to vigorously research the history.  Although the NPS didn’t take the time to interpret the building itself on site, I did find one tiny, tantalizing historic photo on an interpretive sign near Lock 33 of this building in what must’ve been its heyday.

This is the original interpretive sign that gave me a tiny glimpse of the mysterious structure on Lock 33 as it looked in better days. The little photo circled in red was all I had to go on, but even shrunk down and in black-and-white, I had no doubt I was looking at the same house as it appear many years ago....
This is the original interpretive sign that gave me a tiny glimpse of the mysterious structure on Lock 33 as it looked in better days. The little photo circled in red was all I had to go on, but even shrunk down and in black-and-white, I had no doubt I was looking at the same house as it appeared many years ago….

 

This undated photo of Lock 33 is featured on one of the historic markers at Harper's Ferry, and even though the house in question is clearly the house I've circled in red, it wasn't interpreted, leaving me to wonder what exactly I had found...
So you can see what I saw, this is the same tiny photo from the interpretive sign above, this time on a larger scale.  The structure in question is circled in red.

This only drove me to search harder, though all these years, I was never able to find out anything more about this building other than that tiny photo on the interpretive sign.  My first clue that this search may be a bit easier this time around was when I came across this photo right off the bat:

This 1859 view of Harper's Ferry gives us a direct look across the river and at the house that still stands on Lock 33.
This 1859 view of Harper’s Ferry gives us a direct look across the river and at the house that still stands on Lock 33.

The Lore

When I first started my search anew on Google, I came across modern photos of this building, which reported this structure as Lockhouse 33.  Being that the house sits directly across from the now-dry C&O canal and Lock 33, that seemed to make perfect sense.  It was also reported that a flood had destroyed the wooden floors and roof, leaving the house a shell.

http://ridethecanal.com/Lock%2033%20-%20Harpers%20Ferry.aspx

http://wikimapia.org/26872447/Lock-Keeper-s-House-Lock-33-C-O-Canal

http://theexplorographer.com/2014/10/dont-pay-harpers-ferry-man/

http://sterlingimages.com/2012/06/18/brunswick-to-harpers-ferry/

Harpers Ferry

To my surprise, this structure had become so well-known in the time between my original visit and now that even Google Maps has a view of the house from the inside.
https://www.google.com/maps/place/Harpers+Ferry,+WV/@39.324658,-77.7263,3a,75y,251.37h,71.72t/data=!3m8!1e1!3m6!1s35-OWeiIHgoAAAGu5vHjuA!2e0!3e11!6s%2F%2Fgeo2.ggpht.com%2Fcbk%3Fpanoid%3D35-OWeiIHgoAAAGu5vHjuA%26output%3Dthumbnail%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26thumb%3D2%26w%3D100%26h%3D80%26yaw%3D95.680305%26pitch%3D0!7i10000!8i5000!4m2!3m1!1s0x89b6030decf1954d:0xd65b9aa758b4cd1e!6m1!1e1

Admittedly a bit embarrassed that I hadn’t guessed that this structure was the Lock 33 lockhouse, I continued my search for more information until I finally found a reputable source for my information–and interestingly, this source’s version of what this building actually is differs quite a bit from the rumors.

The Truth

Finally, after wading through pages of photos and supposition, I found three solid sources upon which to base the history of the Stone House.  The house actually stood partially on C&O Canal land, so after making an agreement with the canal company, a man by the name of James Eglin began blasting away at the bedrock of Maryland Heights that still stands directly behind the house.  Eglin built the house starting in the winter of 1840 and completed it before spring in 1841.

Now, Eglin was a businessman in Harper’s Ferry, but unfortunately, despite his business savvy, he was never able to obtain the title for the house.  It seems that Eglin rented the house out after it was built, but come Civil War time, the Union Army tossed out Eglin’s tenant and turned over the house to the lockkeeper at Lock 33, a gent by the name of John H. Reed.

John Reed reportedly operated a store out of the stone house as well as a some sort of bar.  Reed occupied the property until 1889, when, at the time of his death, the property passed to his son, Winfield S. Reed.  Incidentally, there was also a massive flood on the river in 1889, which reportedly caused considerable damage to the canal, boats, and structures that were built near the canal.

This photo shows Lock 33 after the devastation of the 1889 flood. Notice just above the wreckage of the boats in the photo, the distinctive two-story front porch of the Eglin house is visible.
This photo shows Lock 33 after the devastation of the 1889 flood. Notice just above the wreckage of the boats in the photo, the distinctive two-story front porch and small upstairs side window of the unpainted Elgin house is visible.

Now, Winfield Reed wasn’t exactly–shall we say–a responsible young man.  Turns out, he was indebted to a man by the name of Albertus Spencer for quite a pretty penny, and in 1893, Spencer won the house and another property lot after a lawsuit against Reed.  Spencer, apparently without many bright ideas of his own, continued to operate a store and drinking-type establishment out of the stone house, which had quickly earned itself quite the reputation–so much so that a petition forced the place to shut down just before Prohibition took effect in the second decade of the 1900s.  The petition apparently stemmed from not just the reputation of the drinking house, but from a fight that occurred earlier in the year in front of the house that resulted in several people losing their lives.

With Prohibition in effect, Spencer built a two-story wooden frame house next to the stone house and moved his store to the new structure.  In the stone house itself, he opened a museum that featured information about the infamous John Brown.  During this time, Spencer conveyed the stone house to his wife, Mary Spencer, and upon her death in 1923, the house passed on to her sister, Elizabeth A. Stockman.  Stockman lived in the second story of the stone house, continuing to operate the museum on the first floor from 1924-1927.  In 1927, Elizabeth Stockman moved, taking the museum and its artifacts with her and leaving the stone house to her son, Edgar Spencer Weaver.  Weaver lived in the house from 1927-1930, when he and his family moved to a new house on a different lot.

The years 1930-1933 are a bit of a question mark in the history of the stone house, but in 1933, when Prohibition was repealed, Edgar Spencer Weaver’s widow, Hester Weaver, reportedly re-opened the two-story frame building next to the stone house as the bar that would become infamous in Harper’s Ferry and an entity that the stone house is still mistaken as today: The Salty Dog Tavern.  Though the bar was closed in the early 1940s, the area around the stone house was once again know for its bad reputation and high concentration of drunks.

Artist's rendering of what the Eglin house would've looked like along Lock 33 in its prime, the Salty Dog Tavern represented by the wooden structure in the foreground.
Artist’s rendering of what the Elgin house would’ve looked like along Lock 33 in its prime, the Salty Dog Tavern represented by the wooden structure in the foreground.

From 1947-1953, a man named Patrick O’Brien owned the house and used it as a rental property.  In 1953, he sold the house to Richard and Marie Torres for $5,000.  What the Torreses did with the place, I’m not quite sure, but it’s pretty clear they didn’t do much in the way of caring for the house.  A fire in 1960 reportedly damaged the structure considerably, and by the time the National Park Service was taking over control of Maryland Heights in 1963, my sources report that the internal structure of the stone house was on the verge of collapse.

Yet another fire several years after the first was apparently enough to do-in the interior of the house, and all that remained standing is what we see today–a stone shell of a home.

Though if you take a look at the previous post, you’ll discover what I consider to be a bit of a mystery.
Sure, if you look closely at the interior of the house, you might be able to see a bit of charring, especially on the walls of the second story.

But what about the wooden windowsills and doorframes that remain intact in the house?  Are those original?  Were they somehow spared from the fire?  Did the park service decide to replace them for scenic purposes?  That is one question I have that I may never answer.

Undated photo of the Eglin house in an already advanced state of decay (floors and roof are gone).
Undated photo of the Elgin house, erroneously marked as the Salty Dog Tavern, in an already advanced state of decay (floors and roof are gone).

Reputable Sources

http://candocanal.org/articles/CO-canal-at-Harpers-Ferry.pdf

http://www.whilbr.org/itemdetail.aspx?idEntry=1671

https://archive.org/stream/marylandheightsa00frye/marylandheightsa00frye_djvu.txt

http://www.canaltrust.org/discoveryarea/harpers-ferry/

All Sources

http://www.13thmass.org/1861/harpersferry.html

http://www.cocanalguide.com/locks/mile-50-100/lock-33-harpers-ferry-mile-60-70/
The above link contains a photo of the interpretive sign that bore the tiny black-and-white photo that gave me my first glimpse of the James Elgin house in its historic context.

http://theexplorographer.com/2014/10/dont-pay-harpers-ferry-man/

http://ridethecanal.com/Lock%2033%20-%20Harpers%20Ferry.aspxhttp://wikimapia.org/26872447/Lock-Keeper-s-House-Lock-33-C-O-Canal

http://sterlingimages.com/2012/06/18/brunswick-to-harpers-ferry/

Harpers Ferry

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Fast Backward: The Stone House, Harper’s Ferry, West Virginia

If you’ve never been to Harper’s Ferry, WV, I highly recommend it.  Despite being one of the most history-rich areas I’ve ever toured, it’s also stunningly beautiful–a classic old American town built into the side of mountains overlooking the convergence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers.  What’s more, it’s a perfect place for someone such as myself, who finds a certain allure in the abandoned and ignored.

Though a large percentage of the town and the surrounding area are actually contained in a National Park, I’ve found that due to the NPS’s tendency to let ruins be ruins, the fact that these locations are not perhaps as remote or neglected as others I’ve explored doesn’t detract from the mystery of what they once were.

While there are several abandoned places I might take you in Harper’s Ferry, I figured I’ll start with my favorite location: the Stone House.

This is Lock 33 on the C&O Canal, which runs alongside the Potomac River on the northeastern side directly across from Harper's Ferry.
This is Lock 33 on the C&O Canal, which runs alongside the Potomac River on the northeastern side directly across from Harper’s Ferry.  It’s a shady, somewhat isolated place that used to be bustling with activity when Lock 33 was an active lock on the C&O Canal.  Now just populated by walkers and bicyclists, I certainly didn’t expect to find what I did as I descended the steps and took a left…
My first view of the structure at Lock 33, which sits perched above the lock and across Harper's Ferry Road.
My first view of the structure at Lock 33, known as The Stone House, which sits perched above the lock and across Harper’s Ferry Road.

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Undaunted by the canal and the road, I crossed both and arrived to this view.
Undaunted by the canal and the road, I crossed both and arrived to this view.
Just the shell of a house, I was immediately curious as to what this had once been and what circumstances had led to its ruin.
Just the shell of a house, I was immediately curious as to what this had once been and what circumstances had led to its ruin.
Looking toward the front of the house from the inside.
Looking toward the front of the house from the inside.
Looking to the right side of the house (when facing it), where a stone chimney and two doors remain.
Looking to the right side of the house (when facing it), where a stone chimney and two doors remain.
Looking to the left end of the house.
Looking to the left end of the house.
A look out one of the front windows, which still contains the original wood paneling, though it's been many a year since this window has held a pane.
A look out one of the front windows, which still contains the original wood paneling, though it’s been many a year since this window has held a pane.
The front door, with the original wood frame still intact.
The front door, with the original wood frame still intact.
Looking out the front door to the left along Harper's Ferry Road.
Looking out the front door to the left along Harper’s Ferry Road.
Looking out the front door to the right on Harper's Ferry Road.
Looking out the front door to the right on Harper’s Ferry Road.
View of the window sill and frame.
View of the window sill and frame.
Closer view of the front door side paneling.
Closer view of the front door side paneling.
Looking up at the chimney on the right side of the house.
Looking up at the chimney on the right side of the house.
On a subsequent trip less than a year later, I returned for more photos.
On a subsequent trip less than a year later, I returned for more photos.

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Two stacked doors to the left of the chimney and fireplace.
Two stacked doors to the left of the chimney and fireplace.

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Looking out the side door.
Looking out the side door.
Looking up through what used to be the second story.
Looking up through what used to be the second story.
Looking above the structure at Maryland Heights.
Looking above the structure at Maryland Heights.
Another view of the lock.
Another view of the lock.

As much as I’d love to tell you all I’ve learned about the history of this interesting home, I’ve found myself inundated by the sheer amount of research I’ve located.  Due to this fact, I will be writing a second post on this house, dedicated solely to the history.  Stay tuned!

Fast Backward: Camp Lucy-Mac, Ludington State Park, Michigan

Here’s a question for you: what do you do when someone tells you about a 1950’s-era Scout camp, the remnants of which lie abandoned in an isolated woods within the confines of a popular state park?  You go find it, of course!

It was a cloudy day and a long trek to reach the location that was reportedly the site of a summer camp back in the post-WWII era.  So take a visit to back when times were a little simpler and the forest was just a wee bit thinner.

IF YOU VISITED this page before 11/10/15, it might benefit you to give it another read!  Based on further information discovered, this article has been heavily edited.

PLEASE NOTE: for the sake of privacy, the folks who accompanied me on this visit have been removed from the photos.  As I am not photo shop-savvy, I have simply cut them out of the pics and filled in the area remaining with a solid color.  I apologize for the lack of aesthetics in this post, but do try to look past the glaring edits to see the beauty of nature reclaiming this old campground.

First view of the camp was from a sandy, central-feeling area that is surrounded on one side by a wooded embankment. Two sets of steps lie to the right and left. We took the steps to the right (to the right in the photo).
First view of the camp was from a sandy, central-feeling area that is surrounded on one side by a wooded embankment. Two sets of steps lie to the right and left. We took the steps to the right (to the right in the photo).
View of the second set of steps from the sandy area.
View of the second set of steps from the sandy area.  It was apparent from looking around that this area used to be completely cleared of all trees, except perhaps the big ones growing at the embankment’s edge.
Walking into what was once the lodge. The area to the left reveals a fireplace. The area to the right appears to have been a kitchen with tiling still visible in the decaying floor.
Walking into Bldg 1, which I now believe was once the recreational building / dining hall / kitchen / lodge. The area to the left reveals a fireplace. The area to the right appears to have been a kitchen with tiling still visible in the decaying floor.
Firepit in the lodge.
Fireplace in Bldg 1.
Standing in the lodge kitchen, with some of the tiling still visible.
Standing in Bldg 1’s kitchen, with some of the tiling still visible.  Piping is still visible around the walls of the foundation.
Back edge of the kitchen in the lodge.
Fireplace in Bldg 1.
Looking down the steps we had walked up into what was once a sandy clearing.
Looking down the steps we had walked up into what was once a sandy clearing.
Looking from the lodge area over to the second set of steps.
Looking from Bldg 1 area over to the second set of steps.
A possible firepit location as the trees were certainly not accidentally fallen in this configuration.
A possible firepit location as the trees were certainly not accidentally fallen in this configuration.
What appears to have been a long, rectangular building that, at best guess, may have been either a bunk house or a recreation building with our money on the latter.
Slightly west of Bldg 1, we stumbled across the ruins of Bldg 2. Bldg 2 appears to have been a long, rectangular building and does not appear to have any piping (unlike Bldg 1).
Bunk house / rec building.
Bldg 2.
What looks like a bathhouse with stalls, water hook-ups and a central drainage area still visible.
Bathhouse/laundry: north of Bldg 2, we came across what looks like a bathhouse with stalls, water hook-ups and a central drainage area still visible.
Bathhouse.
Bathhouse/laundry.
Behind the bathhouse lies another foundation in the woods, this one set back a bit from the main camp. Counselor's quarters? The camp nurse? We can only offer guesses at this point.
Bldg 3: Northeast of the the bathhouse lies another foundation in the woods, this one set back a bit from the main camp. Counselors’ quarters? The camp nurse? We can only offer guesses at this point.
Closer photo of unknown building.
Closer photo of Bldg 3.
Walking down a faint trail in the woods, we came to the end of a point. This is the view from the end.
Walking down a faintly visible trail in the woods, we came to a point of land looking out at Hamlin Lake.  It was then that one of my fellow explorers with a keen eye noticed old tin cans submerged under the water at the tip of the point and the remnants of an old dock, its boards and pilings still somewhat visible underwater.
At the end of the point, we found a lot of large rocks like the ones above. Charred areas of ground also suggest a possible remote campfire location.
At the end of the point, we found a lot of large rocks like the ones above. Charred areas of ground also suggest a possible remote campfire location.
Back at camp between the lodge and the rec building, we found this interesting piece of stonework. A campfire? No, alas--a well. Nay, two wells!
Back at camp between Bldg 1 and Bldg 2, we found this interesting piece of stonework. A campfire? No, alas–a well. Nay, two wells!
Second well.
Second well.
The northern edge of the lodge where a stone embankment separates the land from the lagoon water.
The northern edge of Bldg 1, where a stone embankment separates the land from the lagoon water.
Another view of the lodge area, presumed to be the kitchen.
Another view of Bldg 1, presumed to be the kitchen.
Heading back into the sandy clearing.
Heading back into the sandy clearing.
Walking the ledge trail back to Lake Hamlin.
Walking the ledge trail back to Hamlin Lake.
Ducking back to the sandy trail along Lake Hamlin, headed for the dam.
Ducking back to the sandy trail along Hamlin Lake, headed for the dam.
One of my presents to you--my artistic rendering of the general layout of Camp Lucy-Mac. Not to scale. Bldg 1: Likely the recreational building / dining hall / kitchen Bldg 2: Likely the lodge Bldg 3: Unknown. Reportedly a classroom/sleeping quarters, but this is unconfirmed by newspaper or historic source.
One of my presents to you–my artistic rendering of the general layout of Camp Lucy-Mac. Not to scale.
Bldg 1: Likely the recreational building / dining hall / kitchen / the Lodge.
Bldg 2: Use unknown.
Bldg 3: Use unknown. Reportedly a classroom/sleeping quarters, but this is unconfirmed by newspaper.
A Google Maps view of two possible sites where I believe Lucy-Mac was potentially located. Hamlin Lake is an inland lake that connects to Lake Michigan via the Big Sable River. Note the dam in the photo above wasn't always located where it stands today.
A Google Maps view of two possible sites where I believe Lucy-Mac was potentially located.  When Lucy Mac was in operation, a CCC camp stood in the Hamlin Beach area directly across from the Girl Scout camp peninsula.
Hamlin Lake is an inland lake that connects to Lake Michigan via the Big Sable River. Note the dam in the photo above wasn’t always located where it stands today.

And now, the history…

As you might imagine, a find like this left me itching for answers.  While my source knew the approximate location of the abandoned ruins of the above camp, my source wasn’t sure what years the camp operated, what it was called, or if it was a Boy Scout camp versus a Girl Scout camp.  Upon returning home and to internet coverage, I began my search immediately.

Surprisingly, information about this particular location was hardly forthcoming.  Several hours of searching left me thinking I’d never get to the bottom of this one until a name popped up in an old newspaper clipping from 1941: Camp Lucy-Mac.

Upon reading the article, I realized I had found what I was looking for.  I found yet another newspaper article, this one from 1944, which gave me the lowdown of this little-known campground.

Back in 1932, the Girl Scouts (GS) took over a Boy Scout camp at Canfield Lake, which is just north of Ludington near a town called Manistee.  It was renamed Camp Michawa.  This worked out well for a few years until this small inland lake dried up to the point where it no longer supported water activities, and the GS folks moved across the lake to Wisconsin to Camp Sinawa in 1936.  But the Michigan GS troops wouldn’t find themselves traveling across Lake Michigan to attend camp for long.

In the early months of 1937, a lady named Lucy McCarthy was watching her efforts to create a GS camp in Ludington State Park (LSP) take root.  Having organized the meetings between the Michigan Conservation representatives and the GS leaders, the site for a GS camp within LSP was approved on a 6-degree March day.  From that point on, construction and reorganization began.

Mrs. McCarthy organized local men from Ludington to come out and cut down trees, clear out poison ivy, and make the area generally inhabitable for excited Girl Scouts and their counselors.  She also orchestrated the transfer of items from Camps Sinawa and Michawa to the new site, bringing over everything from tents to tent floors to latrines and an outdoor stove to Lucy-Mac via Lake Michigan.

On July 11, 1937, Camp Lucy-Mac opened and was named in honor of the lady who had worked so hard to start it.  According to the Ludington Daily News, Mrs. Jennie Lind was the director, and the camp, though humble, was off to an auspicious start.  By way of activities, Lucy-Mac boasted outdoor cooking classes, swimming, boating, hiking, overnight trips, handicraft, and an opportunity to work on scout badges.

That isn’t to say the budding camp wasn’t without its problems.  In its first year, there were no permanent buildings–only tents.  The Girl Scouts who attended that year named the main dining tent “the sieve” due to the amount of water that poured in through its holey roof during rain showers.  The outdoor stove was the only location where food could be cooked in the entire camp, and so all food was cooked outdoors–rain or shine.  The wells that were sunk on the day that the camp opened were soon shown to have bad water, so all water was brought to Lucy-Mac from the CCC Ludington-Pere Marquette camp from across Hamlin Lake in large milk cans.  To boot, it seems that the men Mrs. McCarthy had recruited to pull poison ivy were not as thorough as they ought to have been as the paper reports that this first year, most of the staff got poison ivy so badly that nearly each of them had to go home at some point to recover.

In later years, permanent buildings would be added, starting in 1938 with a screened-in kitchen.  The outdoor stove became an incinerator and a convenient location to make popcorn at night.  By 1941, the State Park would add a bathhouse, laundry, a lodge, and recreation building.

According to a newspaper article from June 22, 1944 (which is the main source for this article), the lodge building, which is likely referencing Bldg 1 in this particular case, was described as being at the end of a lagoon with a great view of the lake. (For further info on why this has been a point of contention in my research, please scroll down for a link to the next article pertaining to Lucy Mac!)

Behind (south of) the lodge, there was the sandy playground–surely the clearing we came upon on the way to the camp–which was used for making tin can breakfasts, playing baseball, and hosting nightly campfires and evening dramas put on by the campers.  The girls’ tents were set up around the lodge and swimming area.  And finally, Pirate Island, which was just north of Lucy-Mac, was nearby enough to host camp-outs and tin can cookouts (remember those tin cans one of my companions had noticed in the water?).

While I was able to discover its opening date, I have not yet discovered when or why Camp Lucy-Mac was closed or what led to it being demolished to its foundations.  If any of you happen to know the history behind this curious camp, please leave a comment below!

EDIT 11/10/15: I have recently gained access to the aforementioned newspaper clippings that reveal more information and also contain some photos of this camp.  The article containing this info is now live!  For your convenience, please follow the link below:

https://thewaywardwanderlust.wordpress.com/2015/11/10/camp-lucy-mac-ludington-state-park-michigan-the-newspaper-old-photos-post/

Sources

Main newspaper article referenced in this post: Ludington Daily News, June 22, 1944
https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=110&dat=19440622&id=HWlOAAAAIBAJ&sjid=rTwDAAAAIBAJ&pg=6843,6701702&hl=en

Ludington Daily News, July 14, 1944
https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=110&dat=19440714&id=8ZkJAAAAIBAJ&sjid=t0IDAAAAIBAJ&pg=4247,461187&hl=en

Newspaper snippets about Camp Lucy-Mac:
http://www.vintagegirlscout.com/campMI.html

Ludington Daily News, August 6, 1940
https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=110&dat=19400806&id=A6taAAAAIBAJ&sjid=T08DAAAAIBAJ&pg=4917,1397788&hl=en

Ludington Daily News, August 16, 1949
https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=110&dat=19490816&id=z49OAAAAIBAJ&sjid=p0IDAAAAIBAJ&pg=6934,5187467&hl=en

Ludington Daily News, September 3, 1964
http://www.newspapers.com/newspage/9163497/